Water Lilies, Popular Aquatic Pond Plants

June 3, 2011

Water lily flower

Water lilies or Nymphaea, to scientists – are considered by many to be the jewels of the pond. Not only are they beautiful to look at, but they also serve an important purpose in the pond, mainly in aiding its ecosystem. Water lilies spread across the waters surface, filling it with color and vibrancy all the while keeping the pond and the creatures in it safe and healthy. produce.

Besides being pleasing to the eye, water lilies do a great deal to maintain the well-being of the ponds they inhabit. For one, they provide shade to keep the water temperature down during the hot summer months. By blocking out a lot of sunlight, the lilies help to keep the algae growth down. Their shade also gives shelter to any fish that may be in the pond – a respite from both the sun and any predators that may be lurking nearby. They also absorb nutrients in the water that would normally feed these undesirable green plants, keeping the water clear and clean-looking.

General Information

Hardy water lilies can remain in the pond year round. The lily will die off in the winter time and produce new leaves and flowers in the spring. The hardy lily generally flowers from May through September. Flowers come in a variety of colors, opening in the early morning and closing in the late afternoon. Some hardy water lily flowers change color shades over the life of the bloom

Water lilies grow completely within water, with their blossoms flourishing on top of or above the water’s surface. They typically grow to suit the size of the area in which they are placed, spreading their leaves across the surface of the water and filling it with color.

Water lilies require a lot of sun to grow properly. In frost-free regions, they bloom all year. In cooler regions, they bloom during the summer and often into the fall. Throughout their growing season, they constantly generate leaf growth. These leaves live up to three or four weeks at the peek of the season.

The most striking feature of water lilies is the incredible amount of variation found among the different plants. From their shape and size, their color and fragrance, or their blooming patterns and growing periods, there is a water lily for every preference and every pond.

Water lilies range notably in size – from miniature flowers with small leaves to giant plants that spread over 25 square feet. They come in a variety of shapes – star shaped, cup shaped, pointed or fluffy, though that’s certainly not all. The leaves can be smooth or jagged, rounded or pointed.

The colors are just as varied, ranging from yellow, pink, red, white, purple, blue and orange. Several types of lilies are incredibly fragrant, as well.

Lily Flower Macro

In the center of all water lilies are golden stamens – the organ of the flowers that bear pollen. When the lilies are young, the stamens stand straight. As the flowers age, they begin folding and curling into the flower.

The variations found in water lilies are especially pronounced when one breaks down the genus further, into hardy water lilies and tropical water lilies. They are similar, but they are not closely enough related to be naturally cross-bred. While both need a lot of sun to bloom and to thrive, tropicals, unlike hardies, can still bloom with as little as three hours of sun in a day. That said, tropical water lilies can be either day- or night-flowering plants, while hardies only open during the daylight hours. Tropical water lilies also start blooming later in the summer than hardies; however, they remain in bloom for longer than hardies. Tropicals also tend to have larger plants and larger blossoms than their hardy counterparts, and tend to hold their blossoms higher above the water than do the hardies.

These are a few of the differences between the two types, but the list continues. Both subgenres – hardy water lilies and tropical water lilies – have their own characteristics and their own needs, as outlined below.

 

Hardy Water Lilies

Hardy Water Lily picture

The leaves of hardy plants are circular in shape with smooth, round edges. There is a waxy cuticle covering their surface. These features all aid in their survival: the shape helps to protect them from tearing in rough winds or waves, while the waxy cuticle allows the water to roll off the surface so that the leaves do not sink.

Hardies come in a variety of colors, ranging from red, salmon, pink, white, yellow, orange, peach and nearly black. There are some varities – called changeable water lilies – that change their color over their bloom period (of three to four days). Hardy water lilies are the first of the lilies to come into bloom in the spring. Once the water temperature holds steady at 60 degrees, they will begin to bloom, spreading their pads across the pond with their blossoms eventually floating on or just above the water’s surface. These shallow-rooted plants need plenty of room to grow and spread up and out across the pond.

In the early spring, these fresh lily pads will begin to emerge on the water’s surface. Many of the lilies will be in bloom by mid- to late-spring. They bloom throughout the warm-weather months, eventually becoming dormant in the fall. These are perennial plants, meaning that as long as the rhizome – the underground stem that sends out roots and shoots – does not freeze, the plant will survive through the winter and bloom again in spring. Come winter, in areas with no frost, they will continue to grow, however their growth will certainly slow down a bit. Year-round blooming is possible in frost-free zones. In areas with frost, however, the lilies survive through the winter only if they are below the pond ice.

These are not night-blooming flowers. Indeed, they are open in full bloom by mid-morning and are closed again by mid- to late-afternoon. Though each flower will last approximately three to five days, new flowers will constantly open throughout the season.

 

Tropical Water Lilies

Tropical Water Lily picture

The lily pads of the tropical plants come in different shapes, typically smooth, toothed or fluted. The edges are usually jagged and pointed and may even look ruffled. The pads are larger than the hardies, often taking up much more space in the water than they do.

Tropicals blossoms are impressively sized – some span more than a foot across. Like the hardies, they come in many different colors. The two subgenres share the same color palette, for the most part (red, salmon, pink, white, yellow, orange, peach and near-black), but these types also come in blue and purple.

Though hardy water lilies are indeed very beautiful flowers, it is the tropical lilies that command – and capture – the most attention. They are larger and flashier than the hardies and tend to be more fragrant. They also tend to bloom for a month or two longer, stay open later in the day, and are more likely than hardies to produce multiple flowers at any given time.

The tropicals require warmer temperatures than do the hardies to bloom, thus making them a bit more difficult to grow. After three or more weeks of temperatures above 80 degrees, these flowers will finally start to open up and bloom. Once they do, they fill the ponds with their colorful blossoms throughout the summer months and well into fall. After the hardies have gone dormant, the tropicals will stay in bloom for several weeks longer, often until the first frost. During the winter months, however, they go dormant and die.

 

Tropical Lily Pads

There are two kinds of tropical water lilies: night bloomers and day bloomers. Lilies in the white, pink or red color range tend to be night bloomers, and these types are typically more fragrant. These flowers can take an entire hour to fully open, and tend to open in the late afternoon or early evening and close the following mid-morning.

Day bloomers, however, are the most common kind of tropical water lilies. They are fragrant, as well, but their scents are usually lighter and sweeter than the heavy-scented tropicals. Day bloomers have pointed petals and come in various shades, from magenta, red or pink, to white or yellow, or to blue or violet. They open midmorning and close again during the late afternoon hours.

The blooms of both day and night bloomers open and close for periods of three to four days, holding their flowers above the water on strong, stiff stems.

Planting and Maintenance

There are two options when it comes to planting water lilies. They can either be planted in aquatic plant pots (the kind with no holes in the bottom) or directly in a hole created at the bottom of the pond. The planting of the lily itself will not be affected by the method you choose. Once you determine whether to use plant pots or plant pockets, you can begin the whole process.

With plant pots, a hole is created in the bottom of the pond into which the pots will be placed. These holes at the bottom of the pond must be able to accommodate the pot, so it is important that they are deep and wide enough. Once the vessel has been chosen and the lilies have been planted, you can place the pot into the hole. Take heed: the pot must lie directly on top of the soil at the bottom of the hole on level ground.

“If you choose to use the pocket method, you will plant the water lilies directly into the hole at the bottom of the pond.”

The size of your pond will determine the size of the container you use or the hole you dig. Again, lilies grow to suit the size of the area they are in – keep this in mind. As a rule, the larger the vessel, the larger the lilies will grow.

Water lilies thrive best in heavy garden topsoil, but take care to make sure it has not been mixed with other substances such as manure or compost.
When determining where to place the water lilies, one must keep in mind that they do not thrive when faced with heavy water movement or with water splashing on them. Therefore, they should not be placed near waterfalls, streams or other such potential problem areas.

Maintaining the well-being of the lilies is vital for keeping ponds beautiful. Lilies should be fertilized regularly. This will help the flowers to grow larger and to bloom more frequently. You also must take care to remove all dead or yellowing leaves from the plant’s surface so they will not sink to the bottom and decompose. You should also keep the stems trimmed, pruning them as close to the rhizome as you are able.

There are some differences between hardies and tropicals, however, in terms of their planting and maintenance.

Hardies

Ideally, you should set your hardy lilies out once the early spring chill has subsided but before they begin growing. Doing so will enable them to produce blooms their first summer. If you buy the rhizomes before you can plant them, keep them submerged in water and leave them in a cool place and away from directly sunlight.

These lilies should be planted in pots or holes six to eight inches deep or in pots of a nine- to 20- (or more) quart capacity. The smallest pots recommended for standard and larger sized lilies are nine- to 10-quart containers. At least a five-quart container is recommended for the smaller lilies.

Fill the container about one-third of the way with topsoil then place the seed on top. Then cover the seed with soil so that the tip is just barely peeking through the soil. The blossoms of hardies will rise to the surface one at a time every three to seven days.

Maintenance is key, especially with hardies whose leaves continuously die and grow back throughout the growing season. Yellow leaves and four-day-old blossoms should be removed regularly. You should stop fertilizing hardy lilies in the early fall season as the growth of the plant slows.

Hardy lilies can live through the winter, but special care must be given to them during this time. In cold regions, they will survive if they are below the ice. If the pond isn’t deep enough to lower the containers as needed, remove the pans with the lilies in them and take them to a cool location. Keep them covered with damp material, such as a damp cloth, then seal them in a plastic bag to keep them from drying out.

In areas where frost does not threaten the growth of the lilies, their growth will slow down significantly but will, nonetheless, continue growing.

Tropicals

With tropical water lilies, planting should commence once the pond water has maintained a steady 69 degree temperature. It is very important to note that planting them before the water has reached this temperature may cause serious damage to the plants. They can go dormant – or, at worst, die. They must be planted immediately; unlike their hardy counterparts, these water lilies will not last more than a couple of days without the proper growing conditions.

These lilies should be planted in 15- to 20-quart tubs. They should be planted so that there are six to 18 inches of water growing over their tips.

They will begin growing roughly two weeks after they have been planted and then will begin blooming in another two to four weeks. They should be fertilized about twice a month.

In frost-free regions, tropicals will bloom year-round. In areas prone to frost, however, they do not fare the winter quite as the hardies do, and will die after a few bouts of frost. Many pond owners choose to replace them each spring. If they survive the winter, they should be repotted in fresh soil and fertilized as usual. Once these steps have been taken, they can be placed back in the pond another season of growth and enjoyment.

Article from: http://www.theponddigger.com/water-lilies.php


Fishponds add fascination for aquatic fans

May 27, 2011
Article By Brian J. Lowney
Fur, fins and feathers

Fascinated by the life aquatic? If so, late spring is the perfect time to install a fishpond.

An outdoor home for fish can be as modest as a plastic container the size of a litter box or as grand as a professionally designed structure with waterfalls and other enhancements.

“Ponds are pretty to look at and people enjoy watching fish,” says Richard Rego of Swansea, a marine animal expert and tropical fish hobbyist.

“It’s another form of gardening, too.”

Goldfish, carp and koi are among the most popular pond fish. Other varieties include golden orfe and tench.

“All of these are cold- tolerant that can survive in a pond in the winter,” Rego says.

During the summer, outdoor fish build up enough fat to survive through their winter dormancy, when they get little or no food. When water temperatures dip below 50 degrees, fish cannot digest their food.

“Once the warmer weather arrives, the first inclination that fish have is to breed and then they eat to put on weight for the next winter,” Rego says. “If the fish are healthy going into the winter months, they should survive.”

All fishponds require regular maintenance, which varies according to the size of the pool. While rain does help replenish water that’s evaporated, owners must check water levels, remove algae and feed fish, Rego says.

Owners should be prepared to pay additional electrical costs incurred by fountains, waterfalls and lights, Rego advises. He also points out that while fishponds are often installed to enhance property, they can also be a detriment because many prospective buyers don’t want to deal with the responsibilities and costs of maintaining a pond.

Rego warns against introducing native wildlife — frogs, turtles and fish found in local waters — into backyard habitats.

“You run the risk of introducing disease and parasites,” he warns, adding, “Frogs won’t stay where they are replanted.” Sometimes, he notes, inquisitive amphibians will discover and relocate in the new habitat.

To enhance the beauty of a pond, owners can install cultivated lilies and other water plants available at a garden center.

He warns pond owners never to release excess koi and other fish into the wild because they become easy prey for waterfowl, storks and osprey.

“The biggest pests are great blue herons,” Rego says. “They are notorious for finding koi ponds and wiping them out in a few days. For them, it’s like an all-you-can-eat buffet.”

To protect fish, he recommends placing a protective net over the pond to ward off predators.

Once temperatures rise, fishponds run the risk of becoming mosquito breeding grounds.

To avoid this problem, Rego suggests biological insecticides to control pests and a test kit to keep track of water quality.

Property owners should also put a fence around the pond to prevent accidents.

“Read books and magazines, visit garden centers, get some design ideas, learn about fish and have a lot of fun,” Rego says.


Water garden supplies to make a pond beautiful

May 20, 2011

The right water garden supplies come together to make a beautiful water garden. A water garden can be many different things for different people, including a shallow pond, fountains, waterfalls, decorative rocks, lights and plants. It can be built into the landscape, in a patio container or even indoors. One thing all water gardens have in common is moving water. Building a water garden can be simple or complex, but even the simplest designs require a few supplies.

Water gardens need something to hold the water. This can be in any container that is watertight or lined with plastic to become watertight. It can also be a garden pond, lined with a flexible or rigid pond liner. Some water gardens do not have an apparent water basin, instead visible water moves through a fountain or waterfall then disappears to a hidden basin below where it a pump moves it back up to the top. This type of water feature is called a disappearing waterfall.

All water gardens need a pump to move water through the display. Even water gardens simply consisting of shallow ponds decorated with stones or aquatic plants must have a pump to circulate water to oxygenate it and prevent stagnation. For this application, a small pump that will circulate the volume of water in about an hour is sufficient. The size of pump necessary for water gardens with fountains or waterfalls depends on the amount of water it must move and the distance it must move it.

Pond Filters are another necessary part of many water gardens. Any water exposed to the air is subject to accumulating debris. If left alone, debris will decompose and eventually turn the water murky and toxic to plants and animals. If the water garden is home to fish such as koi, it is even more important to have a filter to clean the water of fish waste and uneaten koi food, to maintain a healthy environment. Mechanical filter pads remove debris and suspended particles from the water. Biologic filters consist of living organisms such as microbes within a filter media that digest and remove dissolved pollutants from fish waste and decomposing organic material. Chemical filters such as carbon and zeolite purify the water chemically.

Water gardens introduce the sound and sight of water to a backyard or any location. They can add texture, depth and appeal to the landscape with not only water but also lush greenery, decorative rocks and nighttime lighting. The water garden supplies needed — a liner, pond pump and filter — are affordable and readily available at any pond or garden supply store.

Article from: http://blog.aquaticponds.com/water-garden-supplies/water-garden-supplies-beautiful-pond.htm


Supplies required for your pond

May 2, 2011

Taking care of one’s pond is sometimes an intensive task but is almost always very enjoyable. Depending on whether one has fish, plants or both in their pond, the amount of pond supplies required will vary tremendously.

Fish Pond Supplies

Fish pond supplies will be required to ensure that one’s fish have a clean and healthy environment in which to live. Some of these pond supplies have to do with the maintenance of the pond and others have to do with keeping the fish healthy themselves. Koi fish are particularly sensitive to their environment; it would therefore be advisable to keep vital fish pond supplies for immediate deployment.

Vacuums are used to keep the bottom of the pond healthy just as they are where swimming pools are concerned. The vacuums used for ponds are generally able to handle the debris and other particulate matter that collects in ponds.

To keep the water itself healthy, one will need one of the various filters on the market. These come in several varieties. Basket filters pull the water through materials which remove particulate debris. An important pond supply is the bacteria used for biological filters which remove algae and harmful organisms from the water. UV filters accomplish a similar task but without the requirement of continuous additional pond supplies, as they operate by frying organisms with ultraviolet radiation. One will need to purchase these filters and any additional garden pond supplies based upon the water volume in their pond.

Another pond supply that one needs on hand is a net which can be used to retrieve larger debris from the water. Particularly in the autumn when leaves are blowing around, one needs to make certain that their pond doesn’t become polluted with refuse. Having a permanent net over the top of the water to catch windblown debris is also a good idea.

A pond aerator ensures that one’s fish have enough air to breathe.  They work on the same principle as do their smaller cousins which are seen in indoor aquariums.

There will inevitably be organisms that begin to grow in the water. To remove those organisms, one will need to use various chemical pond supplies. There are chemicals available that inhibit the growth of both bacteria and algae. One will also need to use a dechlorination chemical to remove chorine from the water when new water is added to the pond. Like humans, fish do not like chlorine built up in their water and it must be removed. Some people use kosher salt to remove algae from their ponds. This can only be done when the fish are safely removed to another location and it must be taken out of the pond before the water is put back in. Generally, the fish pond supplies that allow this task to be done without removing the fish are much easier and just as effective.

Pond Pump Supplies

Pumps are such a vital pond supply that they deserve their own section. There are several different types of pumps available on the market. The biggest difference between the types available is whether they’re placed above or below the water.

Make certain that any pump purchased can circulate the full volume of the water within the space of an hour. It’s best to purchase a pump that is a little larger in capacity than what’s needed rather than to hope a smaller pump will do the trick.

If one happens to be using a submersible pump, station it on a milk crate or another porous, raised surface. This ensures that, should the pump malfunction, that it will not completely pump the water out of the pond and thus kill the fish. A spare pump might be a good pond supply to have in case of pump failure.

Pond Filter Supplies – Beneficial Bacteria

There are bacterial agents which can be added to the pond which are helpful in retarding the growth of algae and other impurities. The good bacteria also kill off the bad bacteria which can ruin the health of the fish. This should be added from time to time to ensure that algae has no nutrients on which it can feed and to break down fish waste.

The waste added to the water by fish can result in toxic levels of ammonia. These bacteria break that waste and ammonia down into harmless materials which are beneficial to the health of the pond. This is an important pond supply to have on hand.

Pond Supplies in Kit form

Many of the most common garden pond supplies can be purchased as kits. This can save money and make it easier to ensure that one doesn’t forget a vital element of their pond maintenance. Make certain that the kit has adequate material for the volume of one’s pond. It may be necessary to purchase additional quantities of pond supplies individually to accommodate the needs of a very large pond. It’s also best to keep some garden pond supplies on hand in case an emergency happens to present itself.

Certain times of year will require more maintenance than others. For instance, algae will almost certainly rear its ugly head during the spring when the waters become warm for the first time of the year. It’s best to have spare pond supplies like a pump on hand, as well, in case one happens to break down at an inopportune time when a replacement cannot be purchased.

Depending on where one lives, it may also be advisable to purchase simple pond supplies such as a pond thermometer and a pond heather. Pond fish can survive in the Florida winter.

One may also consider purchasing a fake heron to place near the pond. This will discourage other birds which prey upon fish from turning one’s pond into a restaurant.

Another nuisance associated with water is mosquito infestation. While one’s koi or goldfish will certainly enjoy snacking on insects, it may be necessary to add a biological agent that kill off these pests. These water pond supplies are generally not at all toxic to any other life forms and can ensure that one’s backyard doesn’t become a breeding ground.

To prevent overlooking an important pond supply make a list of all the pond supplies one will need on a regular bases in addition to the pond supplies one might require in case of an emergency.

Article from: http://www.pond.com/pond-supplies


How to keep a pond clean

April 27, 2011

1. Many of the reasons for cloudy water are because the pond is built improperly. The water level in the pond must be above the surround area. If it is not, run off when it rains will go into your pond. So all the dirt from roads, grass or lawn, roofs, and driveways will end up in your pond. If you have built your pond below grade, you will need filtration to keep the water clear. That filtration can be as simple as a submerged foam rubber filter, a container of lava rocks that the pump sucks water through or as extensive as an exterior bead filter with a UV light attached. But you will need filtration or your water will always be cloudy and algae filled.

2. If you have koi, you need filtration. Koi are magnificent eating machines. And the more they eat, the more waste they produce. Fish waste feeds algae and algae turn your water green. If you want to keep koi, think about a bead filter or at least an exterior sand filter.

3. If you have goldfish and feed them, you will need filtration. Usually a lava rock homemade filter will be sufficient, but sometimes, if you have a large amount of fish in a small pond, you will need a large filter system. As with koi, go with an exterior bead filter or submerged commercial filter system. If you balance your pond ecologically and do not feed your fish, you will need no filtration at all.

4. Cover half the top of your pond with floating plants. When sun hits water, algae form. Keep the water half covered and half as much water will be in the sun. Use water lilies or water hyacinths. Water clover or water poppies work well for natural cover.

5. Watch your bioload. If you have too many fish, the fish waste will not be absorbed by your ecologically balanced pond and the water will turn green. One linear foot of fish per 25-square feet of pond surface is a good rule to follow.
6. Know the pH of your water. If it gets on the basic side, algae grow and the water turns green. Usually this will fix itself if the pond is balanced. If it doesn’t after a couple of weeks, you can buy a commercial product to lower the pH or you can use muriatic acid. Be careful if you do. It can be dangerous.

7. If you find string algae or blanketweed, a common problem introduced into ponds, usually with new plants, a bale of scotch barley works to eliminate it. Be patient. It can take as long as a month to work. Always put another bale in the water before the old one is completely decomposed.

8. If blanketweed continues to be a problem, you can use a black dye for about 3 months to be rid of the stuff for good. Black water is great in a reflecting pool and water lilies look great swaying atop the black water. Your submerged vegetation will not be harmed.

9. You can use a commercially made product and they work well for blanketweed control. Just be very careful in the application because the algae clump at the bottom and can deplete pond water oxygen. If that happens, your fish will die.

10. If you are under a tree and your water is a brownish color, the tannin from the leaves is staining the water. The only way I have found to clear tannin is to use activated charcoal in your filter. You can find it in an aquarium store. Wash it first, put it in an old panty hose leg and put it in your filter. Change it when the water begins to turn brown again. Do NOT use the charcoal you barbecue with. It is not the same thing.

Ponds are the focal point of our gardens. We want our water to be clear and clean. The best way to do that is with benevolent neglect and keeping the pond balanced ecologically. But if you wish to feed the fish or keep koi, you must work a little harder for clear water. Using these few easy fixes will do that for you.

Article from Jan Goldfield, Yahoo Contributor: http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/1427418/how_to_keep_your_pond_clear.html?cat=32


http://myemail.constantcontact.com/Winter-Tips-from-Cool-Ponds.html?soid=1103025183597&aid=vCrYXMLe22c

December 13, 2010

http://myemail.constantcontact.com/Winter-Tips-from-Cool-Ponds.html?soid=1103025183597&aid=vCrYXMLe22c.


Winterizing Your Pond

December 7, 2010

Putting your pond to bed for winter doesn’t need to be an arduous process. Sure, it’s sad to say goodbye to your finned friends for a few months, but following a few simple tips will ensure that your fish joyfully greet you again in the spring.

Remove leaves and debris
Putting a pond net over your water feature before leaves start falling from trees is the easiest way to contain and manage leaf control. Once all the leaves have fallen, simply roll up the net, discard the leaves, and put the net away until the next time it’s needed. Cool Ponds offers different sizes of pond nets, just measure your pond and stop by Cool Ponds located at 2001 Bayshore Blvd, Dunedin, FL 34698, or call 727-738-4974.

If you didn’t install netting, you’ll probably have a buildup of leaves and debris that need to be removed. A long-handled pond net makes an easy job of scooping the debris from the bottom of the pond. If you leave the debris on the bottom of the pond, you’ll be creating a bigger mess to face in the spring.

Trim dead or dying foliage
Stop fertilizing your aquatic plants. Trimming dead foliage helps remove excessive organic debris that would otherwise decompose in the water. Cut back hardy water lilies just above the base of the plant and cut back marginal plants that could droop over into the water.

Add cold water bacteria
Add cold water bacteria to help keep pond water clean and clear. Cold water beneficial bacteria contain concentrated strains of beneficial bacteria designed to work in temperatures lower than 50 degrees. Regular use of cold water beneficial bacteria will help maintain water quality and clarity, as well as dramatically reduce spring maintenance by digesting debris that may accumulate over the winter months.

Ensure healthy fish before winter
A well-balanced diet creates healthy, happy fish. You want to make sure your fish are in good condition before they go into hibernation. When the water temperature falls below 60 degrees, the metabolism and digestion of your fish begins to slow down. Cool Ponds carries Blackwater Creek Premium Cool Season Fish Food is scientifically formulated to properly nourish your fish during these lower temperatures. Be sure to stop feeding your fish when water temperature falls below 50 degrees.

Taking a little time and effort to prepare your pond for winter not only helps your fish survive their winter slumber, but makes your spring maintenance much easier. Be sure to follow these winter guidelines so you can experience the greatest joy from your pond when spring rolls around once again.

Must haves for the winter
Here is a list of items that Cool Ponds recommends for the winter season.

  • Pond Thermometer – (you need to know what your water temp is. Air temps & water temps can vary greatly.)
  • Pond netting – Covering your pond keeps leaves and debris out. Also, it keeps predators from eating your fish.
  • Blackwater Creek Cool Season Fish Food.
  • Cold Weather Bacteria
  • Laguna Pruning Tool